Jaisalmer Fort rises like a fabulous mirage out of the sands of the Thar Desert, the awesome contours of its 99 bastions softened by the golden hue of the stone. Built in 1156 by Maharawal Jaisal, and added to by his successors, this citadel stands on the peak of the 80 m high Trikuta Hill. In medieval times, Jaisalmer’s entire population lived within the fort and even now, thousands of people reside here, making it India’s only living fort. Royal palaces, a cluster of Jain temples, mansions and shops are all contained within its walls.

Exploring the Jaisalmer Fort

You enter the fort from the First Fort Gate at Gopa Chowk. Yellow stone towers all around, often becoming golden, and stone-paved passages wind through a series of massive and intricately positioned gates. All of it is teeming with life and history. Walk about in the narrow streets of the fort soaking in the ambience; often you will lose yourself in the maze, but not for long. Rawal Jaisal, a ruler belonging to the Bhatti clan of Rajputs and who gave his name to the town, is said to have started constructing the fort in 1156. Later rulers added to the edifice, which faced attacks by armies from Delhi and Jodhpur. Throughout its history, people have been living in the fort, and this adds to the extraordinariness of the place. The main courtyard of the fort is called Dussehra Chowk, below the Rajmahal, reached after passing through Hawapol, the last of the gates. From here streets paved with stone and busy with touristy shops, hotels, restaurants, temples and houses lead to various parts of the fort. Enlivening these winding lanes are children coming back from school, women cleaning and washing, and milkmen with metal pots on their motorcycles. You can walk up to the ramparts and the numerous bastions, and absorb the stunning views of the town outside the fort and the rocky landscape beyond. Mornings and evenings are especially good times to do this.

How to reach Jaisalmer Fort

By Air
Nearest airport is Jodhpur.

By Rail
Jaisalmer Station is well-connected to Delhi by the Delhi-Jaisalmer Express, which starts from Old Delhi Railway Station. Mumbai offers connections up to Jodhpur via Ahmedabad. From Jodhpur, there’s the Jodhpur-Jaisalmer Express.

By Road
Jaisalmer is at the far western end of India, tucked into the hip of Rajasthan. Though it is just a few degrees off the same latitude as Jaipur, you have to arch up to Bikaner or way down to Jodhpur to get here from the state capital. So road journeys to this desert town tend to be long. Only travelers coming in from the north should use the Bikaner route. Luxury buses connect Jaisalmer to Jodhpur, Bikaner and Jaipur.